Why Taiwan ?

This was a pilgrimage ! The small subtropical island is a titan of bicycle production, and home to the world's biggest cycle manufacturer (Giant).

We were keen to tackle Taiwan Cycling Route No 1: a marked 968km perimeter loop around the whole island. 

Our Route

Part 1 (below): From Taoyuan Airport, we headed down the east coast on Cycling Route No.1. After Hualien, we diverted inland seeking quieter roads.

Part 2 (below): Returning north, we skirted inland to avoid Cycling Route No.1's busy urban roads, and to loop Sun-Moon Lake. Total miles pedalled in Taiwan: 1170.

The Journey

From the little we had read about Cycling Route Number 1: we gathered the east coast was less industrialised than the west. So we headed that way.

It was a surprise to still find ourselves mostly on busy urban roads, albeit interspersed by short stretches on dedicated cycle paths away from the traffic.

Below: A dedicated bike path on Cycling Route No.1, alongside the main highway - but many other sections were on busy roads.

The January weather was chillier and wetter than we'd expected, especially in the north. We soon decided against diverting into Taiwan's spectacular central Alps, as we had neither the cold weather gear nor the legs for it ! 

Below: Molly's fashion-forward cagoule - a winning purchase.

Diverting off Cycling Route No 1 was usually a good move. Notable examples included Heping Island Geopark and Jiufen Old Street, in the northeast.

Above: Heping Island Geopark, a must-visit for its quirky rock formations.

Below: Bustling Jiufen Old Street. Expect a steep climb and go hungry !

Back on Cycling Route No.1: we hit a stressful series of busy tunnels, lacking safe space for cyclists (below). We met a fellow touring cyclist who was so frazzled by this section that she ended up taking a train instead.

Above: "Bum-twitching" tunnel overtakes. Not relaxing.

And yet shortly before, we enjoyed a dream tunnel experience ! Old Caoling Tunnel (below) was a 2km traffic-free delight for the senses, not to be missed.

Below - heading towards Nan'ao 

Hualien - big earthquake 2024 - we experienced a 15-sec room shaker which set off the hotel siren, lamposts shaking outside

Decided to find quieter roads away from Route 1 - headed inland across Eastern Mountain chain -beautiful quiet road, manageable climbing. Semi-rural homestay (ginger tea)

Chisang: tectonic plate bridge, paddy fields, drone. Nice quiet riding via Google bike

Mimi Village (photo^). Pingtung (we decided to stay inland as far as possible)

Adventurer statue - then forest road, major landslide had to turn back !

Dawu hot springs (Molly recovering turnip cake D&V!). Some nice quiet riding though old graveyards

Kenting National Park - surf spot Lugo 

Dongyuan Forest - beautiful ! Climby, scenic

South Bay stopover. Sea swims !

Fangliao - Molly lost the wallet 🤦‍♀️ Amazing 7-11 staff !

Kaohsiung: fish farms, major urban roads with good moped lane. Dragon & tiger pagodas 

To Neiman - via Caoshan?? Badlands, steep climbs - switchbacks, jungle !

To Yujing via Nanhua Reservoir (scenic lookout)

Mr.Fang's amazing breakfast next to Jen-I-Tan Reservoir (nonstop rain for 2 days!). Great lanes from Google maps (just got a bit lost at the end)

Zhushan: via Duilio?, Ricky (Merida bike shop) and Titanic thorn !

Yuchi via mountain switchbacks to a dead-end jungle 1km from the road we needed - had to put Google Maps onto car route to get back !!

Sun Moon Lake . Wen Wu Temple

Puli via closed road but workmen let us through ! Steamroller picture^

Taichung City: 912? Earthquake Museum 

Bóai Village: hiked Mount Tangmadan trail. Monkey weed on Charlie. Beautiful waterfall. Serious hike / rope scramble ! Wobbly legs for a few days after 

Tongluo Township via Dahu: scenic climb past old rail station, hot food stall at the top. Giant Huntsman in the drawer !

Nanzhuang: nice cycle lane via strawberry farms and rice fields

Taiwan - our thoughts

Diverting off Bike Route No.1 is a must 

Practical Pointers

Convenience stores !!

Met office website excellent (local "cold surge", dense fog and wind warnings, also earthquake data)

Carry some cash: many rural accommodations, and even Px Mart supermarket, did not accept Visa